Thursday, January 3, 2008

Royal Barges National Museum

  • The royal barges are long, fantastically ornamented boats used in ceremonial processions on the river. The largest is 50m long and requires a rowing crew of 50 men, plus seven umbrella bearers, two helmsmenand two navigators, as well as a flagman, rhythmkeeper and chanter.
  • The barges are kept in sheds, on the Thonburi side of the river. The sheds are next to khlong Bangkok Noi, near Saphan Phra Pin Klao (Phra Pin Klao Bridge). Suphannahong, the king's personal barge, is the most important of the boats. Made from a single piece of timber, it's the largest dugout in the worlk. The name means "Golden Swan",and a huge swan head has been carved into the bow of the barge. Lesser barges feature bows carved into other Hindu-Buddhist mythological shapes such as naga (mythical sea serpent) and garuda (Vishnu's bird mount).
  • One of the best times to see the fleet in action on the river is during kathin, the royal ceremony where robes are presented to monks, at the end of phansaa (the Buddhist Rains Retreat, ending with an October or November full moon) when new robes are offered to the monastic contingent.

  • You must pay and ad tna l00B if you want to take photos.
  • The easiest way to get to the museum is by the cross-river ferry from Tha Phra Chan to Tha Rot Fai (the Roman-script sign says "Railroad Station"). The museum is just across the canal from the train station but the closest bridge is the elevated highway. Walk along the street parallel to the railway tracks past the fruit market until you come to a set of stairs that leads to the elevated highway over the canal. Once on the other side, signs will direct you through a labyrinth of concrete walkways that pass a poor housing area and eventually lead to the barge sheds. You can also get there by long-tail boat during a one-hour tour. Boats can be chartered from any pier on the Bangkok side of the river, or you can join a guided tour with Chao Phraya Express Boat (02-623 6001).

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